 |
 |
 |
 |
||
 |
 |
 |
|||
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
|||
 |
|
body |
We have had a number of calls recently regarding Frazier Fir Christmas trees that are not taking up water. Normally we recommend cutting off the bottom inch of the trunk before placing the tree in water to eliminate air that commonly blocks the water conducting tissues. But we have had homeowners remove up to 6 inches of trunk with no apparent effect. It has been suggested that the abnormally warm weather has dried out trees during transit, and they are dead on arrival. But at least some of these trees are heavy--much heavier than you would expect if they had lost enough water to kill them. Also, there is no evidence of scorch on the needles. Anyway, we are not sure of the cause, but remember, when choosing tree avoid those that shed a lot of needles when shaken. (WU)
Even though we've had a wonderful fall for establishing cool-season lawns (even though a little more rain would have been nice for our water bills), emerged cool-season turf is not automatically safe from cold weather. Unless we get appreciable snow, which acts as an insulating cover, cool-season grasses are more at risk from desiccation than pure effects of cold. Young plants are at the greatest risk, especially with repeated freeze/thaw cycles. A good irrigation (0.5-1 inch) at the time mowers are serviced and stored for winter, will help alleviate this problem by supplying water to the soil and keeping plants moist.
Cold can be a problem when it is combined with mechanical stress such as foot traffic. Turf plants respond to freezing conditions by moving water to areas outside the cells. As ice accumulates in spaces between cells, plants become more brittle. If walked on when frozen, cells will be crushed against this ice and plants are at risk of permanent damage.
Although difficult, especially with pets, avoid walking on frosted or frozen turf to keep cold damage to a minimum. (MF)
Mowing can be one of the most critical and most underrated cultural practices in turfgrass management. Sharp mower blades are an essential component of proper mowing as they leave a smooth cut surface that heals quickly. Dull blades can tear and otherwise beat up grass blades, leaving a shredded tip that heals slowly, can attract insects or disease, results in less efficient water use, and that can be misconstrued as a pest problem. Because we are doing other things to prepare our mowers for winter, such as draining gas and oil so they don't freeze in the engine, now is an excellent time to sharpen mower blades so they'll be ready next spring.
Sharpening rotary mower blades is fairly straightforward. The following steps will guide you through this process:
* Check the blade for major damage. If you can't fix it, it likely will need to be replaced.
* Remove grass and debris from the blade with a moist cloth. Dry before beginning to sharpen the cutting edge.
* Remove nicks from the cutting edge, using a grinding wheel or hand-file.
* If using a grinding wheel, match the existing edge angle to the wheel. If hand-filing, file at the same angle as the existing edge.
* Grind or file until the edge is 1/32 inch, about the size of a period.
* Particularly with a grinding wheel, avoid overheating the blade as this may warp it.
* Clean the blade with solvent or oil, much like if you were cleaning a gun, for optimum winter storage. Avoid use of water as it will promote rust.
Following these tips can help you better prepare your mower for winter storage and also save you some steps this coming spring. (MF)
The best time to seed cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass is September because the turf has more time to mature before crabgrass germination in the spring and the heat stress of summer. However, dormant seeding of turfgrass is sometimes used to help fill in bare spots of lawns that weren't overseeded in the fall. Dormant overseeding is done during the winter ( December - February) when it is much too cold for germination to take place. As with any seeding program, it is vital that you have good seed-soil contact. Several methods can be used that will accomplish this.
One method is to seed when there has been a light snowfall of up to an inch. This is shallow enough that bare spots can still be seen. Spread seed by hand on areas that need thickening up. As the snow melts it brings the seed into good contact with the soil where it will germinate in the spring.
Another method is dependent on the surface of the soil being
moist followed by some freezing weather. As moist soil freezes and thaws, small pockets are formed on the wet, bare soil that are perfect for catching and holding seed. As the soil dries, the pockets collapse and cover the seed.
A third method involves core aerating or verticutting and broadcasting seed immediately after. Of course, the soil must be dry enough and unfrozen for this to be practical.
With any of the above methods, seed germinates in the spring as early as possible. However, there will be some limitations on what herbicides can be used for weed control. Tupersan (siduron) can be used as a crabgrass preventer on new seedings even before they have come up. However, it is relatively short-lived. Dacthal (DCPA), another crabgrass preventer, is safe to use once the newly emerged grass has exhibited greening (usually about 1 to 2 inches high). Other preemergence herbicides require that the turf be well established before application. (WU)
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) and Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) are epiphytes native to the jungles of South America. Epiphytic plants grow on other plants and use them for support but not for nutrients. Though these cacti are different species, they will hybridize and produce varying stem shapes. Christmas cactus normally has smooth stem segments, and Thanksgiving Cactus has hook-like appendages on each segment.
Both of these cacti prefer bright indirect light. Too much sun can result in the leaves turning yellow. Common household temperatures are fine. Soil should be kept constantly moist but not waterlogged. Give them a light fertilization every other week. Blooming will normally cease in late winter to early spring, but continue to keep them moist and fertilized until fall. During the fall, stop fertilizing and give the plants only enough water so the stems do not shrivel in order to encourage flower bud formation.
Though these plants seem to flower best if kept a little pot bound, flowers will diminish if they are too crowded. If you haven't repotted in several years or if you notice a decrease in flowering from the previous year, move the plant to a larger pot in the spring. If possible, move the plants outside for the summer. Choose a shady spot as these plants will not tolerate full sun. Leave the plants outside until frost threatens. Normally, the plants will have received enough cool nights in the 50 to 55 degree range that flower buds will have formed. However, if they haven't, flowers can also be generated by subjecting the plants to nights greater than 12 hours long and temperatures between 59 and 69 degrees. Twenty-five consecutive long nights is enough for flower initiation. Place the plants in an unused room or cover them with a dark cloth or cardboard box to insure that they receive uninterrupted darkness. After the flower buds have formed, it takes an additional 9 to 10 weeks for flowers to complete development and bloom. (WU)
The amaryllis is a tender bulb that is ready to bloom when purchased. The genus name for this plant is Hippeastrum, which means "horse star"; an appropriate name for a plant that produces massive blooms as much as 8 to 10 inches across. These plants can produce 3 to 4 blooms on a 1- to 2-foot stem. Often, a second flower stalk follows the first at about the time the flowers on the first stem fade. The leaves usually start to appear when the flowers begin to open.
Amaryllis bulbs can be huge; approaching the size of a grapefruit. The larger the bulb, the larger the flowers and the more expensive the bulb. Regardless of size, amaryllis likes tight quarters. Place in a pot only 1 to 2 inches larger in diameter than the bulb. About half of the bulb should remain exposed. Hold the bulb so the roots hang down into the pot and add potting mix. Firm the mix around the roots carefully so that they are not snapped off. Water thoroughly and place the plant in a warm, sunny location. Amaryllis likes day temperatures in the 70s and night temperatures in the 60s The flower bud may start to appear right away or the plant may remain dormant for a period of time but eventually all mature bulbs do bloom. Move the plant to a cooler location and out of direct sunlight when the flower buds begin to show color so that the flowers last longer. Amaryllis can remain in bloom for about a month.
Flowers should be cut off after blooming to keep the plant from expending energy on seed formation. Place the plant back in a sunny location until it is warm enough to be placed outside. Sink the pot in the soil in an area that has dappled shade. The plant can be gradually moved to sunnier locations until it receives full sun for a half day. Continue to fertilize with a balanced houseplant fertilizer as you would a normal houseplant. Bring the pot in before first frost and place in a dark location. Withhold all water so the leaves have a chance to dry completely. Leaves can then be cut off close to the top of the bulb. Amaryllis can often be left in the same pot for several years but will eventually need repotting. Again, choose a pot that is only 1 to 2 inches larger in diameter than the bulb and repeat the process described above. Offsets are normally produced by amaryllis and can be given their own pots if desired. These bulblets have a concave side when removed but develop a round shape when given their own space. They grow quickly and can be mature enough to flower in a couple of years. (WU)
Contributors:
Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Matt Fagerness, Turfgrass
Horticulture 2006 E-mail Subscription
For questions or further information contact: Hort
WebMeister.
KSU, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture
Cooperating.
All educational programs and materials available without discrimination on the basis of
race, color, national origin, sex, age, or disability.
Extension Horticulture Home Page | Horticulture Information Center