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Modern poinsettia varieties stay attractive for a long time if given proper care. Place your poinsettia in a sunny window or the brightest area of the room but don't let it touch cold window panes. The day temperature should be 65 - 75 degrees F. with 60- 65 degrees at night. Temperatures above 75 degrees will shorten bloom life and below 60 degrees may cause root rot. Do not place the plant on top of a TV set because it becomes too warm while it is on. Move plants away from windows at night or draw drapes between them to avoid damage from the cold.
Poinsettias are somewhat finicky in regard to soil moisture. Avoid overwatering as poinsettias do not like "wet feet." On the other hand, if the plant is allowed to wilt, it will drop some leaves. So how do we maintain a proper level of moisture? Examine the potting soil daily by sticking your finger about one inch deep into the soil. If it is dry to this depth, the plant needs water. When it becomes dry to the touch, water the plant with lukewarm water until some water runs out of the drainage hole, then discard the drainage water. (WU)
Fruit plants adapted to temperate zones need a rest period each winter before they will grow and produce fruit the next spring. This "rest" is actually a requirement for a specific number of chilling hours between 32 and 45 degrees F. For example, blackberries require about 400 chilling hours while red raspberries and grapes need 700 hours or more. Until this need is met, the plants won't break dormancy regardless of the weather. However, once this chilling requirement has been satisfied, the plants may begin to grow if temperatures warm to 50 degrees or higher. This may occur as early as January or February. Plants that start to grow too early are subject to damage from sharp drops in temperature. Thus far this year, we have had less chilling hours than is customary and so chilling requirements may be met later in the winter than normal. However, this is totally dependent on weather and may change. (WU)
Rabbits may begin to nibble on newly planted trees and shrubs this time of year. Protect your investment now through this winter with at least 2-foot-tall cylinders of 1-inch-mesh chicken wire or similar barrier. Other methods of control include plastic tree wraps and liquid rabbit repellents sprayed on the plants. (WU)
Normally we think of nightcrawlers showing up in the spring but we have been seeing a lot of activity recently due to the abnormally warm weather. If you have mounds of soil in your lawn making it hard to mow, nightcrawlers may be the cause. These bumps are randomly spaced rather than in a "run" like is seen with moles.
Nightcrawlers are large worms (usually 4 to 8 inches or more). They belong to a group of earthworms known as deep-burrowers. The deep-burrowers build large, vertical, permanent burrows that may reach as deep as 5 or 6 feet. Nightcrawlers pull plant material down into their burrows which can be fed on later.
The bumps you see on top of the ground are called "middens" and are a mixture of plant residues and castings (worm feces). These middens may be used for protection and food reserves. The burrows have a significant positive effect on soil by opening up channels for water and air to penetrate. Roots also like these channels due to the ease of root penetration and nutrients found in the casting material lining the burrow.
Therefore, nightcrawlers actually help the soil but may make it difficult to mow. Getting rid of the middens may be difficult. Rolling the lawn while the middens are soft may help temporarily but mounds will be rebuilt when nightcrawlers become active again. However, this late in the season, activity should stop when temperatures drop making rolling a more viable option.
There is nothing labeled for nightcrawler control. Gardeners may want to protect the nightcrawlers due to their positive effect on soils. Pesticides that may be used for other pests vary widely in their toxic effects on earthworms. Those that have no effect include diazinon, Dylox (Proxol), and Oftanol. Dursban and malathion may be slightly toxic while Sevin, Benomyl, copper sulfate, and the arsenicals (MSMA, DSMA) are extremely toxic. (WU)
Scottish researchers have announced the first elm trees that have been genetically modified for resistance to Dutch elm disease. Using bacteria and a "bioblaster" gene gun, the scientists inserted genetic material from other plants into cells of elms. Commercial uses of the technology could be as little as three to five years out. The project has been funded by the U.K. Forestry Commission, which hopes genetic engineering can restore elms to the British landscape. Though most Americans are familiar with devastation Dutch elm disease has wrought in the United States, many aren't aware that it also has been a severe problem in Europe as well. If this breakthrough pans out, it's only a matter of time before the genetic resistance is transferred to American elms. Conventional breeding programs in the Untied States have met with mixed success. They have mostly produced varieties that are resistant, but not completely immune, to the disease, or hybrids that show excellent resistance, but are not the "true" American elms. The recent breakthrough by Scottish scientists could change that. (EB)
Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Eric Berg, Kansas Forest Service
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