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The annual Kansas Turfgrass Conference is quickly approaching (November 27, 28 & 29). If you have not already preregistered, please call Christy Dipman at (785) 532-6173. On the first day, November 27, six workshops will be offered: Basic Turfgrass, Advanced Turf management, Pesticide Recertification
(3A & 3B), Athletic Field, Grounds Maintenance/Ornamentals, and Business Management. The next 2 days include a general session, with breakout sessions in the afternoon (Golf Course, Lawn Care, and Grounds Maintenance).
A one day conference for commercial growers of cut flowers and vegetables will be held at the Sedgwick County Extension Education Center, 21st and Ridge Road, Wichita, on November 27. Registration begins at 8 a.m.
Production and marketing, greenhouse and hoophouse production, varieties will be covered. Please share this with growers statewide.
Pre-registration is necessary and payment must accompany the pre-
registration. A fee of $25 (prior to November 20) or $30 (after November 20) covers materials, speakers, coffee and lunch.
Make checks payable to Education Fund. Mail to: Sedgwick County Extension Education Center, c/o Kae Bowles, 7001 West 21st N, Wichita, KS 67205.
For additional information, contact Bob Neier at 316-722-7721, or bneier@oznet.ksu.edu . (Bob Neier)
You can enjoy apples from January to June -- if you have the right conditions. Some apple cultivars store for longer periods than others. Some cultivars will stay in firm, crisp condition for about 6 to 8 months with good storage conditions.
The approximate length of time that the following cultivars will keep well under refrigerated conditions are:
Wealthy - 60 days
Paulared - 90 days
Gala - 120 days
Jonathan - 120 days
Grimes Golden - 120 days
Golden Delicious - 150 days
Empire - 150 days
Delicious - 160 days
Braeburn - 180 days
Idared - 200 days
Rome Beauty - 220 days
Winesap - 220 days
Fuji - 240 days
Granny Smith - 240 days
Arkansas Black - 240 days
The condition of the apples and how they are stored will strongly influence the storage period. Some guidelines to help assure good quality and maximum storage life of apples include:
* Store only the best quality.
* Store in a plastic bag to help retain moisture in the apples. The bag should have a few small holes for air exchange.
The bags of apples may be stored in boxes to prevent bruising if they must be stacked or moved from time to time.
* Refrigerate at about 35 degrees F. An extra refrigerator may work well.
* Sort about every 30 to 40 days to remove fruit that may be beginning to rot. (WU)
In the fall plants go through a process of cold hardening whereby they become acclimated to low temperatures. This acclimation is in response to cooler temperatures and to days becoming shorter during the fall months. As temperatures drop gradually, plants become progressively more acclimated to cold. A well-acclimated plant can survive much lower temperatures than one that has not had the opportunity to become used to the cold weather. The temperatures recently have been so mild that our plants have not hardened as much as they normally would. If temperatures drop very quickly, we may see damage to plants.
There is not a lot that can be done to protect trees and most shrubs (other than making sure the soil under them is moist) but we may be able to help herbaceous perennials. Herbaceous perennials would not only include our perennial flowering plants that die to the ground each year but also other plants such as strawberries. As long as the weather remains mild or temperatures drop gradually, keep the plants uncovered to allow them to acclimate. However, if there is a sharp drop in temperature (to mid-teens or lower), throw mulch or some other covering over them to help moderate temperatures. Uncover again as temperature rise to allow the plants to continue the acclimation process. Some tender herbaceous perennials (such as strawberries) need a permanent mulch through the winter months to help protect them from dessication and heaving caused by freezing and thawing of the soil. This is best done when temperatures have been cold enough to leave some frost in the ground. (WU)
During the short days of winter, houseplant growth slows resulting in a need to change how we care for them.
Although frequent watering may have been necessary during the long days of summer, the same amount now could cause problems. Excess water fills air spaces within the soil resulting in roots that receive less oxygen than they need. Water by touch, not by calendar. If the soil is dry an inch deep, it is time to water. Be sure to add enough so that some water flows out the bottom of the pot. This will help wash out any excess salts that tend to accumulate within the potting soil.
Fertilization should also be reduced. Normally, it is best to apply half the amount of fertilizer for flowering houseplants and one-fourth the amount for foliage houseplants. Too much fertilizer results in plants that become leggy and weak.
Location is another factor that should be considered at this time of year. Since daylength is so short, houseplants may be helped by being moved to areas of the room that receive more light, such as a south- or east-facing window. Avoid placing plants where drafts from doors or direct output from heating ducts may contact them. Relative humidity also tends to be low during the winter. If you do not have a humidifier, frequent misting of the plants or placing them on water-filled trays of pebbles can help raise the humidity. (WU)
We are approaching the time when icy streets and sidewalks may again make walking and driving hazardous. Ice melting products can help keep us safe. However, these products vary in their ice melting abilities and in their safety to nearby plants.
There are 5 main materials that are used as chemical de-icers: calcium chloride, sodium chloride (salt), potassium chloride, urea, and calcium magnesium acetate.
Calcium chloride is the traditional ice melting product. Though it will melt ice to about -25 degrees F, it will form slippery, slimy surfaces on concrete and other hard surfaces. Plants are not likely to be harmed unless excessive amounts are used.
Rock salt is sodium chloride and is the least expensive material available. It is effective to approximately 12 degrees F but can damage soils, plants and metals. Potassium chloride can also cause serious plant injury when washed or splashed on foliage. Both calcium chloride and potassium chloride can damage roots of plants.
Urea is a fertilizer that is sometimes used to melt ice. Though it is only about 10% as corrosive as sodium chloride, it can contaminate ground and surface water with nitrates. Urea is effective to about 21 degrees F.
Calcium magnesium acetate (CMA), a newer product, is made from dolomitic limestone and acetic acid (the principal compound of vinegar). CMA works differently than the other materials in that it does not form a brine like salt but rather helps prevent snow particles from sticking to each other or the road surface. It has little effect on plant growth or concrete surfaces. Performance decreases below 20 degrees F.
Limited use of any of these products should cause little injury. Problems accumulate when they are used excessively and there is not adequate rainfall to wash or leach the material from the area. Since limited use is recommended it is best to remove the ice and snow by hand when possible. When they are applied practice moderation. We are often prone to over applying just to make sure the ice and snow melts. Keep in mind this can damage concrete surfaces as well as the plants and grass growing along the walks and driveways. These problems are normally latent and do not show up until spring or summer. (WU)
Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate
Horticulture 2006 E-mail Subscription
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