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While usually devoted to hunting, family gatherings, and football, this time of year is important for managing turf. Over the next few weeks' I'll offer some tips to help prepare your lawn for the upcoming winter and get it off to a good start next spring. To begin, mid to late November is an ideal time to give cool-season lawns their last nitrogen application of the year.
Why now? While shoot growth and mowing frequency have declined, plants are still using sunlight to make food energy (photosynthesis). Since there is little demand for growth, any food produced is moved to turfgrass roots and crowns where it can be stored for the winter to sustain plant metabolic activity. It will also provide an immediate and plentiful food source when plants begin to grow in spring, so turfgrasses thrive through March and April without any extra nitrogen. Early spring nitrogen fertilization can promote excessive shoot growth and weaken the plant going into summer. November-applied nitrogen can help with winter hardiness, root growth, and shoot density, leading to a great start next spring.
How much fertilizer should you apply? One pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. of lawn is usually enough. In order for the applied nitrogen to benefit turfgrass in the short time that remains in this growing season, it needs to be readily available to the plant. Use a soluble or quick-release form of nitrogen, such as urea or ammonium sulfate. Many fertilizer products contain appreciable amounts of quick-release nitrogen, but check the label and avoid those with slow-release material in them. Soluble fertilizers are also processed faster by microbes in the soil, meaning that nitrogen that remains in the soil this fall does not necessarily get lost over the winter months. (MF)
Generally, it is recommended to plant hardy bulbs (especially daffodils) in October to give them enough time to root before winter. But it is certainly not too late to plant them now. As long as the soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F, the bulbs should continue their root development. Soil temperatures across Kansas last week averaged from the 50s to the 60s. Although many of the best bulbs have probably already been purchased, garden centers may still have a good selection from which to choose. Be sure to select large, firm bulbs that have not begun to sprout.
While many bulbs can adapt to a wide range of soil types, none can tolerate poorly drained soil. Prepare the planting bed by adding organic matter such as peat moss, well-rotted manure, or compost. Adequate fertility is essential. It is best to rely on a soil test to determine what nutrients are needed. Garden soils that have been regularly fertilized in the past may have excess levels of phosphorus. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the uptake of other essential micronutrients. In such cases, it would be better to use a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen such as a 29-5-4, 27-3-3 or something similar. Fertilizers such as the above should be applied at the rate of 2/3 pound per 100 square feet. In the absence of a soil test or if phosphorus is needed, add a low analysis, balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 6-10-4 at the rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of bed. Mix all amendments thoroughly with the soil before planting the bulbs.
The size and species of the bulb determines how deep to plant. In general, the depth to the bottom of the bulb should be about 2 to 3 times the size of the bulb, but check the planting instructions specific to each particular flower. (WU)
The majority of woody plants produce seed that will not germinate immediately after harvest. Normally this is due to one of three reasons:
- the seed is immature and simply needs more time to develop;
- there is a mechanical barrier keeping water from reaching the seed;
- there is a physiological block that inhibits germination.
Immature seed needs time to complete development and does not require special treatment. The water barrier and/or physiological block requires special treatments to prepare the seed for germination. One such treatment is stratification. Stratification is a process whereby seed is given the moisture and temperature conditions normally found in it's natural environment. Seeds that are shed in early fall often require a warm moist stratification period before the seed will germinate. Those that drop later in the fall may respond to cool, moist conditions. In Kansas, the most common stratification needed is the cool, moist type. The amount of time required for stratification varies with the species of plant. For example,apple requires 75 days, red oak needs 30 to 45 days and sugar maple should have 60 to 90 days. All three of these species require cool, moist conditions. If unsure of the amount of time required for a specific species, 3 to 4 months usually is sufficient.
For cool stratification, temperatures just above freezing are best with a range between 35 and 45 degrees considered ideal. Temperatures higher and lower than this are less effective. The minimum temperature at which stratification occurs is reported to be 23 degrees, and the maximum is 62 degrees.
Stratification should be done in a medium that is moist but not soggy. If there is too little moisture, the seed coat does not take up the water needed. Too much reduces the amount of oxygen available to the seed. If peat moss is used, a ratio of 1 or 1 1/4 parts water to 1 part air-dried peat moss by weight is recommended. When wetting peat moss, use warm water, which is absorbed more quickly than cold.
Small amounts of seed can be stratified by placing the seed in moist peat moss inside a plastic bag and placing the bag in the refrigerator. Small seeds can be placed between two sheets of cheesecloth so they are not lost in the medium. Larger amounts of seed can be placed in a plastic container or wooden box. Place layers of seed between layers of moist sand or a mixture of sand and peat moss. Bury the container outside so the top is even with the surface of the soil, and cover with leaves or straw. Alternatively, the container may be placed in an unheated garage or root cellar. (WU)
Contributors:
Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Matt Fagerness, Turfgrass
Horticulture 2006 E-mail Subscription
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